Diwali has never been just about diyas. It is a late brunch, a quiet puja at home with family, and a glittering dinner against the Marina skyline — all in one day. The wardrobe, naturally, has to keep up.
We spoke to couturiers who shape how fashionistas dress for the festive season — Anita Dongre, Manish Malhotra, Varun Bahl, Seema Gujral, Siddartha Tytler, Abhinav Mishra and Bhumika Sharma — on what festive dressing means now. This year, the focus will be on curation. Fewer pieces, worn with far more intent. The light this year is softer, richer, and designed to last well beyond one night.
For Anita Dongre, who has built her house on conscious luxury and has a deep connect with the Dubai audience, this global shift is central. “The modern Diwali wardrobe is rooted in tradition but styled with a global sensibility,” she says. “She appreciates craftsmanship and heritage, but she is also looking for versatility, ease and refinement. In Dubai especially, there is confidence in dressing up. It balances Indian craftsmanship with contemporary luxury, creating pieces that feel timeless rather than trend-driven.”
THE SAREE, THE JACKET AND THE SHARARA
The full, heavily embroidered lehenga is no longer the only option. In fact, for 2026, the saree is the undisputed hero.
For Manish Malhotra, its appeal is endless reinvention. “The saree is something I keep returning to because there are endless ways of interpreting the drape,” Manish says. Anita Dongre agrees, adding the lehenga and kurta set to the timeless trinity. “A beautifully draped saree, an elegant lehenga and a contemporary kurta set remain timeless,” she notes.
The second hero is the embroidered jacket — the single most mentioned piece across all designers. Varun Bahl calls it “the ultimate statement layer”.
Then comes the sharara, which is also going to be this season’s favourite. “A printed sharara set, travelling with an embroidered jacket. In Dubai, I would wear it light, with flat sandals. For dinner in London, I would add the jacket, change into heels and choose bolder earrings,” says designer Bhumika Sharma.
For the woman who doesn’t want to wear a lehenga at all, Anita offers the most practical take. “Festive dressing does not have to mean elaborate dressing. A beautifully tailored kurta set, a flowing skirt paired with a handcrafted blouse, or a contemporary co-ord with subtle embroidery can feel just as celebratory. Sometimes restraint can be the most luxurious statement.”
Manish sees the jacket as a festive menswear essential, too. “A sharply cut bandhgala or a contemporary festive jacket with clean trousers travels effortlessly,” he notes.
JEWEL TONES WITH IVORY IS THE NEW RED
If there is one shift everyone agrees on, it is colour. The classic bridal red still holds its place — Bhumika Sharma calls it “the colour of Diwali”. But it is now joined by a far more nuanced palette.
Seema Gujral and Abhinav Mishra are championing soft metallics — champagne, antique gold, ivory and burnished bronze — because, as Seema notes, “they photograph beautifully and move easily between day and evening”.
Anita Dongre bridges both worlds with jewel tones and soft metallics. “I always return to deep jewel tones like emerald and ruby, soft golds, and rich shades inspired by nature. These colours have a sense of occasion while remaining enduringly elegant,” she says.
Manish Malhotra echoes this, noting his return to ivory and black as timeless anchors. “Jewel tones have an enduring place in festive dressing — they immediately have that richness without needing too much embellishment,” he says.
Varun Bahl, never one to shy away from drama, makes the opposite case for maximal joy. “Dubai doesn’t do understated, and neither does Diwali,” he says. His palette is emerald, ruby, midnight blue, deep fuchsia and gold, often layered with his signature florals. “Walk into the room and let the clothes arrive before you do. Diwali is the festival of light, and you should be the brightest thing in it.”
So, invest in jewel tones for impact and ivory for longevity. As Sharma puts it, “Teal looks rich against gold and suits every skin tone. Yellow recalls marigolds and the warm glow of diyas.”
FROM HEIRLOOM TO EVERYDAY
What makes Diwali 2026 conscious is not less craft, but more meaningful craft. For these designers, sustainability is about longevity. “The most sustainable thing you can do is create something worth keeping,” says Seema Gujral.
Anita Dongre, known for her focus on natural fibres and artisan communities, adds flesh to this philosophy. “For me, conscious fashion begins with creating something that will be cherished for years. A festive outfit should carry beauty, emotion and longevity. When a garment has lasting value and meaning, it naturally becomes a more responsible choice.”
Manish adds his thoughts. “One of the most meaningful aspects of Indian craftsmanship is that it is inherently about the human hand, time and longevity. I also believe clothes should have a life beyond one occasion.”
The newness lies in how the craft is applied. Bhumika Sharma is reimagining gota sitara on relaxed kaftans. Varun Bahl is bringing dimension back to florals with hand-worked appliqué.
This season, Anita is reimagining Benarasi textiles, a craft she has been invested in for years. “We work closely with master weavers to develop original motifs and fabrics that feel distinctly our own. Traditional weaving techniques are being reimagined through lighter constructions, nature-inspired motifs and contemporary silhouettes, allowing heritage crafts to evolve while remaining true to their origins,” she says.
Siddartha Tytler is revisiting Parsi Gara. “It has a beautiful cultural history, and I wanted to retain the richness of the original craft while interpreting it in a way that feels relevant,” he says.
FASHION FOR A GLOBAL AUDIENCE
We asked all designers to design a look that goes from a Diwali brunch in Dubai to a cocktail dinner in London. The answer was unanimous — a versatile base with a transformative layer.
“I would choose a champagne or ivory saree with tonal crystal work and a very modern blouse,” says Seema Gujral.
Anita Dongre’s solution is the most travel-friendly: “I would choose a fluid Benarasi skirt paired with a structured blouse and a lightweight embroidered jacket. It carries the richness of Indian craftsmanship while remaining versatile enough to move between different settings and cities. Styled minimally during the day and elevated with jewellery in the evening, it reflects the way women dress today — globally, effortlessly and with a strong sense of individuality.”
When it comes to travel colours for the festive season, Tytler votes for black and gold as the ultimate travel palette. “Black and gold have a timeless appeal and work beautifully across different settings.”
As Manish puts it, “The modern Indian wardrobe doesn’t need to lose its identity to feel completely at home anywhere in the world.”
THE FINAL TOUCH: THE JEWELLERY
If the clothes are more subdued, jewellery is doing the talking this year. The rule for 2026 is one hero piece. Manish Malhotra, who has just launched The M Collection of fine jewellery line, says, “I love the contrast between an extraordinary traditional necklace and something much more contemporary — earcuffs, layered necklaces, pieces that can be stacked and styled differently.”
For women, statement earrings are non-negotiable. As Varun Bahl notes, “I love jewellery that has a presence. Statement earrings are a must.” When the outfit is understated, they carry the entire look. Jhumkas are ideal for the day, a cocktail ring for the evening, the designers echo.
For men, the detail is everything when it comes to jewellery. Sid Tytler shares his signature pieces to match the outfit. “A classic watch, a refined brooch or a statement ring can add character.”
Ultimately, the Diwali wardrobe of 2026 is not about buying more. It is about buying with intent. An ivory saree that will see 10 Diwalis, a jacket embroidered by hands that know its craft for generations, a pair of earrings that finishes every look from Dubai to London. As Manish Malhotra reminds us, this is the new luxury. “Pieces you want to keep, re-wear and eventually pass on,” he wraps up.
Source: Khaleej Times
